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Basque Jai Alai Players in Tijuana Keep Tradition Alive By Teresa Baksh Teresa Baksh teaches physical education at Cuyamaca Community College. She received her M.A. from San Diego State University in 1979. Her thesis was entitled “Jai alai of the Basques.” The historical Fronton Palacio is a well-known landmark in downtown Tijuana and a visible reminder of the continuing Basque presence in that city. For thirty-four years professional Basque jai alai players have thrilled spectators from the United States and Mexico with exhibitions of their unique sport. Before the evening games the cesteros work on baskets in view of the public. The employees, all of whom are male, wear traditional Basque costumes of white shirts, white pants, sashes, berets, and colorful neck scarves. The touristy audience is usually very enthusiastic, although many of the fans do not completely understand the game. In 1947 the Fronton Palacio opened fulfilling the lifetime ambition of Señor Mariano Escobedo, first president and general manager of the club. At that time every player at the fronton was Basque, including Jose Garate, jai alai gold medallist at the 1924 Olympic Games held in Paris, France. Jose's younger brother, Pedro, was also on the fronton's first roster. Upon retiring, Pedro Garate opened the famous Chiki-Jai, a Basque restaurant directly across the street from the jai alai Fronton Palacio. Presently, only eight members on the roster of thirty-one are Basque; the remainder are Mexican or Cuban. This high-speed, dangerous and exciting sport has a significant impact in Mexico, for it attracts many players and followers. However, the Basque presence is still felt strongly. Through interviews, observation and personal correspondence with the eight Basque players in Tijuana, a great deal of information has been learned about their lifestyle in that city. With one exception, the Basque players are from the province of Vizcaya, Spain. They are: 1) Javier Astarloa “Barruti”; 2) Jose Garechana Arriaga “Gare” Barinaga; 3) Jose Ma. Ibaibarriaga; 4) Jose Ignacio “Muguerza”; 5) Fernando Odiaga “Azumendi”; 6) Jose Maximo “Belaza” and 7) Fernando Ibaibarriaga “Goitia” Guerricagoitia. The eighth Basque player is Jose Vicente Alberdi, son of the Players’ Manager, or Intendente, in Tijuana and a resident of Chula Vista, California. Recruitment of players to the Fronton Palacio in Tijuana is accomplished through direct written inquiries to Old World clubs and friends, as opposed to the American system of sending “scouts” to the Basque country. Although the caliber of play in Tijuana is very good, it is not as great as that in the American frontons. All of the players in Tijuana are considered “seasoned,” meaning experienced, but most of their playing has been in the Basque country, particularly Vizcaya. Tijuana seems to be a stepping-stone to more lucrative frontons in the United States. There definitely is a large turnover of Basque players in Tijuana. Both Mexican and Basque players express the belief that American is the land of opportunity as far as the sport of jai alai is concerned. Once in Tijuana, it appears easier to land a contract in the United States, which is the ultimate goal of every professional jai alai player who was interviewed. The question arises as to what extent the Basque jai alai players in Tijuana become socialized into the Mexican culture. This situation in Tijuana is particularly interesting because the Basque players, all of whom speak Spanish fluently, are not inclined to interact with Mexicans. Although there is no language barrier to set them apart from their host countrymen, Basques prefer to communicate in their native language, Euskera, rather than Spanish. This medium is extremely important to expression of their ethnic identity, and sets them apart from the other players. Furthermore, the Basques made it clear that they prefer each others’ company and tend to travel in their own circles. The single men share apartments with each other. They shop, cook, party, eat, and go to the beach together. The majority of the players do their own cooking, for they cannot adjust to the local food easily. In the past, the Basque players congregated every Thursday night, their “off” night, at the Chiki-Jai restaurant located across the street from the Fronton Palacio. Nowadays, they appear frequently at the restaurant La Costa. Another example of their companionship was reflected in their appearance at the second annual Pamplonada ’80 held in Tecate, Mexico, an event patterned after the celebrated running of the bulls in Pamplona, Spain. To the delight of the 25,000 spectators, the Basques danced, sang, drank wine out of botas and, of course, ran before the bulls in traditional white pants, shirts, and red neck scarves. Evidently, the Basque jai alai players in Tijuana make a conscious effort to maintain their ethnic heritage and express their unique identity. Generally they socialize with each other, telephone home at least once a month, go home on vacations, and continue to speak their native language. In essence, they do not lose their “Basqueness.” Preservation of the identity is, of course, enhanced by occupational involvement in their “national sport.” The Basques have always been, and almost certainly will continue to be the best jai alai players in the world. There are a number of reasons for this. In the first place, the sport typifies physical characteristics of the Basques. Qualities such as endurance, strength and stamina are major prerequisites in the game, and the hardy physique of male Basques are highly suited for it. The eight players in Tijuana expressed their desire to play until their mid-thirties and longer if possible. Secondly, the game is dangerous and fast requiring a great deal of courage and daring on the part of the participant. The Basque male has been historically personified as one who has continually sought occupations requiring such qualities (e.g. whaler, sailor, contrabandist, sheepherder). The game reflects the typical competitive, achievement-oriented side of Basque character. It also mirrors the Basque spirit of independence, self-reliance and self-determination as it is basically an individual sport most often played in one to one competition. The professional Basque jai alai players, such as the eight players in Tijuana, play because it is their chosen occupation in life. The professional player is paid well to express his unique identity continually in front of foreign audiences. Internationally, jai alai will continue to be dominated by Basques, if for no other reason than that frontons are expensive to build. Thus the facilities for amateurs in the United States and elsewhere are limited. However, in the Basque Country some kind of fronton or church wall can be found in each and every village and the young boys learn the game at a very early age. Jai alai may be an amusement or a spectacle to foreign cultures, but it is more than a game to the Basque. It is an ingrained part of heritage, a way of life, and in all probability is a game that will not vanish. The Basque jai alai players in Tijuana are part of this tradition and proud of it. |
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